Motor, Pulling Motor, Q/A
Q. Looks like I might get the chance to pull the 2F out of my 77 FJ40 with a week off I have
coming up. Is it best to pull the radiator and front section of the 40 and pull the engine ,trans
and transfer all together. I have a good cherry picker so this would not be a problem. I need to
pull all of them anyway but is this the easiest way? Can I get the shifter out w/o the "special
tool" shown in the Toyota manuals? If so, will it be obvious how to make other common shop
tools work for the job or will I have to make a tool? Also, is it a must to pull the trans hump
over the transmission or is it necessary? There is a lifting hook already on the front of the 2F
but where can I grab in back to balance all this weight? Sorry for the long post but ANY
advice, especially from experience, is welcome. Thanks.
A. Definitely remove the radiator and bracket and front bib. You're going to have to disconnect all the radiator hoses anyway and once this is done you're only looking at a half dozen bolts or so to get the radiator out and a couple more for its bracket.This is about a 30 minute job and will save you lots more time than that. Jeff's right, you can just fold the bib down but if you've gotten it that far, I think it's best to remove the two bolts on the bottom bracket and take it completely off and out of the way....'course I never have enough room for what I'm doing. And if you have an 8274 on the front like I do that bib don't fold very far.
I would strongly advise removing the engine-tranny-transfer as a unit. It is far easier than dropping the tranny and transfer unless you have a pro tranny jack, a lift, etc. Actually, even at that I think the time saved in putting it back together will be made up by being able to reassemble it on your garage floor instead of laying under the rig on your back, especially if you try to get by without removing the transmission hump. You might be able to do it with the hump in place but again I like to get as much stuff out of the way as possible. Also it seems I remember the access to the tranny-transfer through the passenger compartment was useful in guiding the assembly out and back in. As Jeff says, it's heavy and it's also long. The only other advice I'd offer is label everything you take apart with masking tape and black magic marker and store little stuff in ziplock bags.
My F had a liting bracket on the head front and rear but my present 2F doesn't have one on either end I don't think. I'd probably use the alternator bracket or motor mount in front and motor mount in back as Jeff suspected. You might also find removal to go a little easier if you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, and peripherals while it's still in the truck. Things like an alternator just seem to have a way of getting in the way of your sling, or smashing into something.
Pete
A. I just did this job over Labor Day weekend. While I pulled the t-case first, then the tranny, then the 2F, I see no reason you can't do all three at once. Bear in mind that the total weight will be approximately 1000 pounds.
For the rear, you can wrap your chains around the rear motor mounts on the bell housing.
Yes, by all means, pull the radiator, radiator bracket and drop the bib. Note that on the bib, all the holes are actually slots on the apron and fenders, so you do not need to completely remove the nuts and bolts, you only need to loosen them and it will drop right down on the lower hinge.
Do not forget to put a rag on top of each front tow hook, as the headlights will rest on them. Of course do not forget to unplug the headlight connectors.
If you leave the e-brake on the t-case, you will only need to undo the four bolts on each of the drive shaft flanges. If you pull the e-brake first, the stake nut can be a pain to get off. I ended up using a cutoff wheel to grind the staked part off so it could be loosened with an impact wrench.
I did not know at first how to get the shifter off either, so I posted here and on the LCML, got lots of good recommendations. I ended up using two screwdrivers. Hold them horizontal, parallel to each other on opposite sides of the lever. Press down and turn clockwise about 1/8 turn. Other methods suggested included using a pickle fork (Rob Mullen said that's what he uses), an old rubber suspension bushing, or a large socket. It is spring loaded, so the idea is simply press straight down then turn clockwise. Once it comes apart it becomes obvious how it goes together. This is one thing the chassis and body manual isn't too clear on.
Good luck!
Jeff Zepp
A. Definitely remove the radiator and bracket and front bib. You're going to have to disconnect all the radiator hoses anyway and once this is done you're only looking at a half dozen bolts or so to get the radiator out and a couple more for its bracket.This is about a 30 minute job and will save you lots more time than that. Jeff's right, you can just fold the bib down but if you've gotten it that far, I think it's best to remove the two bolts on the bottom bracket and take it completely off and out of the way....'course I never have enough room for what I'm doing. And if you have an 8274 on the front like I do that bib don't fold very far.
I would strongly advise removing the engine-tranny-transfer as a unit. It is far easier than dropping the tranny and transfer unless you have a pro tranny jack, a lift, etc. Actually, even at that I think the time saved in putting it back together will be made up by being able to reassemble it on your garage floor instead of laying under the rig on your back, especially if you try to get by without removing the transmission hump. You might be able to do it with the hump in place but again I like to get as much stuff out of the way as possible. Also it seems I remember the access to the tranny-transfer through the passenger compartment was useful in guiding the assembly out and back in. As Jeff says, it's heavy and it's also long. The only other advice I'd offer is label everything you take apart with masking tape and black magic marker and store little stuff in ziplock bags.
My F had a liting bracket on the head front and rear but my present 2F doesn't have one on either end I don't think. I'd probably use the alternator bracket or motor mount in front and motor mount in back as Jeff suspected. You might also find removal to go a little easier if you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, and peripherals while it's still in the truck. Things like an alternator just seem to have a way of getting in the way of your sling, or smashing into something.
Pete
A. I just did this job over Labor Day weekend. While I pulled the t-case first, then the tranny, then the 2F, I see no reason you can't do all three at once. Bear in mind that the total weight will be approximately 1000 pounds.
For the rear, you can wrap your chains around the rear motor mounts on the bell housing.
Yes, by all means, pull the radiator, radiator bracket and drop the bib. Note that on the bib, all the holes are actually slots on the apron and fenders, so you do not need to completely remove the nuts and bolts, you only need to loosen them and it will drop right down on the lower hinge.
Do not forget to put a rag on top of each front tow hook, as the headlights will rest on them. Of course do not forget to unplug the headlight connectors.
If you leave the e-brake on the t-case, you will only need to undo the four bolts on each of the drive shaft flanges. If you pull the e-brake first, the stake nut can be a pain to get off. I ended up using a cutoff wheel to grind the staked part off so it could be loosened with an impact wrench.
I did not know at first how to get the shifter off either, so I posted here and on the LCML, got lots of good recommendations. I ended up using two screwdrivers. Hold them horizontal, parallel to each other on opposite sides of the lever. Press down and turn clockwise about 1/8 turn. Other methods suggested included using a pickle fork (Rob Mullen said that's what he uses), an old rubber suspension bushing, or a large socket. It is spring loaded, so the idea is simply press straight down then turn clockwise. Once it comes apart it becomes obvious how it goes together. This is one thing the chassis and body manual isn't too clear on.
Good luck!
Jeff Zepp
